The main subject should be sharp throughout.
Eyes, if a part of the subject must be sharp and
should have a highlight. Sufficient
depth-of-field is essential; which, in
close-ups, calls for small apertures and slow
speeds.
Once you've selected your subject (you
know it's good) analyze the background and
foreground. Every other element in the picture
either enhances or detracts from your subject.
Generally, the closer the better.
Close-up, frame-filling subjects provide the
necessary impact for competition. On the other
hand, shots showing the subject's environment
are becoming more desirable. Overviews and
scenics require an exceptionally strong center
of interest to be effective in nature.
Pictorial elements are just as
essential in nature photography as in any other
category. Composition, color balance, texture,
line and form et al. These are the reasons why
nature subjects do well in pictorial exhibitions
too.
Natural lighting is a must for nature.
There's only one sun. Basic portrait lighting is
effective but the main light must dominate.
Generally, flora is more dramatic with side or
back lighting and a soft reflected fill in
front. Backgrounds should be subdued but
natural. Black backgrounds from use of flash
tend to represent night and, except for night
subjects, appear unnatural.
Most subjects can be enhanced by judicious
cropping. There is no magic in the 35mm format,
which, in fact, violates the golden mean. (35mm
@ 1"x1.5"= 1.5 whereas standard print formats
are 8"x10"= 1.25; 11"x14"= 1.27 etc.)
Distracting elements or excess space can often
be cropped with good results. Reversing can
often make for a better presentation.
And one more: There are no rules. Only guidelines, which have
historically proven effective in all forms of
art. Guidelines can be broken with great effect,
but only by a photographer who knows the reason
for doing so and can anticipate the results.
Stony Brook Camera Club
PO Box 20
Wrentham, MA 02093